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Fish and seafood often figured in the Christmas Eve feast in the days when religious observance forbade meat before the great day. Spiced carp features in Germany and Austria, pickled herring in Scandinavia. Luxurious fresh oysters find favour in France and on the eastern seacoast of the United States, where warm, buttery stew greets snow-weary travellers.


2 dozen oysters
1oz/ 25g/ 2tbsp butter
1/2oz/ 14g/ 2tbsp flour
11/2pt/ 850ml/ 3cups milk
5fl oz/ 140ml/ 2/3cup cream
freshly-grated nutmeg
cayenne pepper
lemon juice
salt
butter (optional)


Open oysters and reserve their strained liquor. Melt butter over gentle heat and stir in flour. Gradually add milk, stir until smooth and add cream. Allow to reach simmering point and season with nutmeg, cayenne and a little lemon juice. Add oysters and their liquor, taste for seasoning and add salt if necessary. Heat just until oysters are warm through and serve immediately with little pats of butter floating on top, if liked.

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