Granuaile, The Pirate Queen

Granuaile (Grace O’Malley), the pirate queen of the western seas, was a remarkable adventurer, who controlled the seas off the West of Ireland in the 16th century and led a life of great daring. The daughter of Owen O’Malley, the Chief of the Western Islands, she was born about 1530 and her early childhood was spent in the O’Malley family home near Murrisk on the road from Westport to Louisburgh, and on Clare Island. When her father died, she made herself the ruler of the area around Clew Bay. She died in 1603.

Clare Island
One Day
Begin the tour with a trip to Clare Island; boats leave at regular intervals from Roonagh Quay, 5 km (3 miles) west of Louisburgh. The crossing is also about 5 km (3 miles) and is best undertaken in calm summer weather.
    On the island, you can visit the castle by the quay where Granuaile lived, which has had many subsequent uses, including a coastguard station and police barracks.
    It’s considered likely that she was buried in the Carmelite friary on the island, which was built by the O’Malleys in 1224, although the present-day ruins date from a later period. Clare Island was her stronghold and walking around the small island, easily done in a few hours, will give a good sense of her seaborne heritage.
O’Malleys Ferries, by Roonagh Quay; tel (098) 25045; fax (098) 26976.
Captain Chris O’Grady, “Pirate Queen”, tel (098) 66288.

Westport
Two Days
Begin your mainland tour of places with Grace O’Malley connections at Westport House just on the outskirts of Westport. The present owner of Westport House, Lord Altamont, is the 13th great-grandson of Grace O’Malley and the house has some fine portraits showing the family connection. The house itself is one of the finest mansions in the West of Ireland, begun in 1730, with the west wing added some 50 years later. It replaces an earlier house, built in the 17th century on the site of an O’Malley castle. Besides the portraits in the magnificent main house, the grounds have many leisure attractions, including a zoo. Westport House and Grounds, near Westport, Co. Mayo; tel (098) 27766/25430 (open daily, June–Sept).
    From Westport, take the N59 road north and then west, in the direction of Achill Island, which is 40 km (25 miles) distant, along a route that is strikingly scenic, with views over Clew Bay and its alleged 365 islands, one for every day of the year.
    Three locations along this route have close associations with Grace O’Malley. Just 3 km (2 miles) beyond Newport, see the ruins of the 15th-century Burrishoole Abbey, a Dominican foundation. Some legends claim that Burrishoole and not Clare Island Abbey is the last resting place of Grace O’Malley, but the final mystery of where she is buried will probably never be solved.
    In her second marriage, to MacWilliam Oughter, she lived in nearby Carrigahooley Castle. The alliance was to last a year, after which it could be terminated by either party saying “I dismiss you.” She spent the year filling all the MacWilliam castles with her own supporters and at the end of the year, as MacWilliam Oughter entered the castle, Grace dismissed him for ever with the words: “I dismiss you.”
    She had lived in Rockfleet Castle for much of her life. It’s further along the road to Achill, on an inlet of Clew Bay near Mulrany. The four-storey building is in good condition and can be visited. It’s a stark building with no exterior fortification, but here, according to Anne Chambers, the contemporary expert on Grace O’Malley, if you explore this castle you will get a good feeling for the life and times of Grace O’Malley. During the summer, the castle is usually open to visitors.
    Finally, on this leg of the journey, cross to Achill Island and drive to its most southerly point. Turn off the main road at Achill Sound and follow narrow badly metalled roads as far as Kildavnet Castle. It’s 7 km (4 miles) south of Achill Sound. This castle was another O’Malley stronghold, but today it’s in ruins, picturesquely set near the coast.
    Return to Westport and take the R335 road in the direction of Louisburgh. On the southside of Clew Bay, 7 km (4 miles) from Westport, stop off at Murrisk Abbey, which was built by the ubiquitous O’Malleys in 1457. The monastery was suppressed in 1574, although Grace O’Malley’s son, Theobald, made a chalice for it in 1635. Although the abbey is in ruins much remains to be seen, including an outstanding east window and one of the west doors. The setting itself is magnificent, with the 763 metre (2,503 ft) Croagh Patrick at its back and Clew Bay in front.
    The nearby village of Louisburgh, 20 km (12 miles) from Westport, is not much more than the crossroads at its centre. It dates back to the 18th century, when it was laid out as a model town by the 1st Marquess of Sligo. His uncle Henry had fought against the French at the Battle of Louisburgh in Canada and that’s where the name comes from. The old Church of Ireland, just off the central crossroads, had a Grace O’Malley Heritage Centre, but at the time of writing this was closed to the public. Future plans for the centre are unclear.
    Two other West of Ireland locations have close connections with Grace O’Malley. After her first marriage to Donal O’Flaherty about 1546 they lived in Bunowen Castle, which is 6 km (4 miles) south-east of Slyne Head, beyond Clifden, Co. Galway, but little trace of this remains. She also owned the old fort on Inishbofin island, off the Galway coast.
    For further information on Grace O’Malley, read Anne Chambers’ books on the subject and contact: Tourist Information Office, Westport, Co. Mayo; tel (098) 25711; fax (098) 26709 (open all year).

For further details on other trails: Travellers' Trails: Ireland by Hugh Oram, from Appletree Press.