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Derreen Gardens, County Kerry

At the boathouse garden enthusiasts should proceed uphill along the Middle Walk which winds over and around lichen-encrusted rocks and lush vegetation. A short distance to the right, a path leads to Froude's Seat, named after the historian who stayed at Derreen in 1867. Here clumps of R. 'Loderi King George' grow-generally considered to be the finest of all the hybrid rhododendrons. Further along the walk are more clusters of fine Himalayan rhododendrons, including R. niveum, R. keysii and R. griffithianum, the latter well known as the parent of innumerable prize-winning hybrids. A handsome Drimys winteri also thrives in the area - its fragrant ivory-white flowers filling the air with scent in May.

From the Middle Walk the path north passes an attractive Thujopsis dolabrata from Japan with large flattened sprays of silver-backed leaves. Close by an extremely beautiful Pinus patula graces the scene, drooping foliage. To the left, the path leads onto the King's Oozy whose twisting course over rocks and down steps brings one to a grove of majestic Thuja plicata planted around 1880. Further along this path the visitor will come across the most remarkable feature of the whole garden ñ a grove of tree ferns from New Zealand, Dicksonia antarctica, planted here around 1900. These have become completely naturalised, constantly renewing themselves by self-sown spores (which come up all over the place, particularly in drainage ditches where they grow to enormous sizes). Here, in the shade of jade-stemmed bamboo and a large Tasmanian blue gum, one has the thrilling sensation of walking in a subtropical rain-forest.

Many of the paths in the garden provide marvellous glimpses of the sea and distant mountains, particularly the Broad Walk around the north of the peninsula. On the way back to the house along the Rock Garden Walk visitors will not fail to be impressed with a remarkable specimen of the beautiful Japanes cypress (Cryptomeria japonica 'Elegans'). This is one of the largest examples of its kind but thanks to a storm now unhappily lies in a near horizontal position almost blocking the walk. From here the path leads to a grassy glade with a fine Chinese rhododendron, R. lutescens, in view of the house. Before departing, a climb up to Knockatee Seat will reward one with a heavenly view.

The garden is presently owned and maintained by the Honourable David Bigham, a descendant of Lord Landsdowne. It rains often in this lush county, so bring Wellingtons and expect plenty of flies and midges in season.

Located north of Lauragh, 15 miles south west of Kenmare. NGR: V 775585. Open daily, April to October. Parking and picnic area behind the house. Lunches and teas available in tea room. Toilet facilities. Dogs on lead. Best season: April to May.

From the Appletree Press title: Irish Gardens.

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