Kilkenny Castle, County Kilkenny

The building of sham castles was all the rage at the time, so it was hardly surprising that Robertson should have chosen to recreate the romantic appearance of the medieval castle. He duly swept away all of the first Duke's charming buildings, fortunately leaving the second Duke's classical gateway. The castle that emerged was externally a rather grim essay in neo-feudalism and internally distinguished only by its dullness. Subsequent alterations to the castle from 1859 to 1862 by Benjamin Woodward and his partner Thomas Deane improved the castle, though it was always the magnificent collection of tapestries, portraits, furniture and above all the famous Ormonde gold plate which redeemed the dark rooms of the interior.

It was therefore a tragedy when the contents were sold in 1935, bringing to an end the centuries-old occupation of the castle. In 1967 the sixth Marquess gave the castle to a local preservation society who two years later transferred it to the state to be restored and managed on behalf of the nation.

Extensive restoration began in 1973, but as yet only portions of the castle are open to the public. This includes the hall, which retains its fine eighteenth century black-and-white flagged floor, and walls that were once covered with gilded Spanish leather, while its elaborate ceiling is a modern replica of the original.

The great mahogany staircase brings the visitor to the dining-room, located in the circular north-east tower with its twelve-foot-thick walls; a further set of stairs winds upwards to a corridor leading to the principal restored room of the castle - the picture gallery. Occupying the entire length of the castle's east wing, it measures 150-feet long, twenty-seven-feet wide and thirty-feet high to the apex of the hammer-beamed roof.

Between 1859 and 1862 Benjamin Woodward introduced a partly glazed roof so that this immense space could be lit, while John Hungerford Pollen painted the roof trusses in the pre-Raphaelite style. Pollen, one time professor of fine arts at University College, Dublin, was also responsible for the white Carrara marble double chimney-piece which he carved himself, complete with a series of bas-reliefs illustrating important events in the Butler family history. The walls of this room are again lined with pictures, and although these are but a few compared to the 184 paintings it once contained, some of the magic and grandeur of this room has now been restored, providing visitors with a fitting climax to a tour of this historic castle.

Located within the city of Kilkenny. NGR: S 509557. Guided tours available. Art gallery in basement (collection of 19th- and 20th-century Irish paintings) along with restaurant. Parkland and gardens open daily. Kilkenny Design Centre located in castle stables opposite main entrance. Toilet facilities. Admission charged.

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From the Appletree Press title: Irish Country Houses.